01
Havana
2+2 days
My friend has already flown in from Colombia when I arrive in Havana. We only stay in Cuba for one week but my backpack is full with toothbrushes, medication, and second-hand clothing to give to locals. For many Cubans these necessities are very difficult to come by. In that same generous spirit, staying at a casa particular instead of state-owned or foreign-company-owned hotels can make a big difference for locals.
The next morning we have a modest breakfast, but luxurious compared to the scarcity that currently prevails in Cuba. In front of our casa particular we see a man with a steel cup and a paperback in hand. He is sitting next to his cart with tools for mending shoes and some second hand books. He is undoubtedly highly educated, like most Cubans.
We walk through the pastel painted streets to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. It offers us just under two hours of Cuban art, and the modernist building itself is impressive.
After two days in Havana we decide that it is time to relieve our worrying mothers and we head to Hotel Plaza looking for Wi-Fi. We could not locate a public Wi-Fi spot so this is our best option in Havana.
In the visitor’s centre on Avenida del Puerto we arrange a driver to take us to all the modernist buildings we want to see. The car turns out to be a bright pink Chevrolet… There is no fixed tour but I give my own suggestions, from the Panamerican stadium to the Russian Embassy.
When we return from Viñales we take a tour through old Havana. We end our day at the bar of the FOSCA building, surrounded by vultures, and cabaret at the Hotel Nacional, surrounded by Russian tourists. Margot leaves for Colombia and I spend my last day looking for souvenirs at Antiques Casa de Belkys and taking in the atmosphere of the streets for the last time.
Before I leave I want to give away some of the clothes I took with me for that purpose. I choose to give them to the man with his steel cup that we saw every morning in front of our casa particular. Luckily I find him in his trusted place. In poor Spanish I ask him if the items of clothing I have with me, could be of any use to him. I saw many Cubans selling clothes outside of their homes so it could earn him some extra money. He is very happy with my offer and asks if he can return the favour by repairing my shoes or if I would like a book from his cart. “Thank you, baby. What is your name? Barbara? My mother, now an angel in heaven, was also called Barbara”.