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03

Road to Ambalavao

2 days

A crowd of colourful Betsileo people catches our attention. Sunday mass has ended and people gather in front of the church. We meet Victorine. She used to be a French teacher in the village. She would like to send us a letter and we exchange addresses. She uses the opportunity to hitch a ride with us to her home.

We break up our journey in Fianarantsoa. Tired and hungry we quickly confirm our stay. While we use the wifi in the lobby a group of men walks in with a cock and minutes later two men walk in with a cheque for 1 million ariary. They won the cockfight that evening. After a street food dinner of all kinds of batter-fried foods, we get ready for bed. Only now do we really see what the room looks like. Our standards are not the highest, but this night would be a challenge. We huddle together and laugh at our own misfortune. At five in the morning we are woken up by a crowing cock. Maybe last night’s victor?

On our first afternoon in Ambalavao we meet with our guide Gégé for a multi-day trek in Andringitra National Park. Ambalavao is not big, but it is very cozy. Several jacaranda trees and the evening sun provide the perfect backdrop for a quiet stroll along the market and through the small streets.

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