02
Kazbegi
2 days
After 4 hours in the marshrutka we arrive in Kazbegi. We immediately start our hike to the Gergeti Trinity Church. Quite a steep climb past horses, cows and shepherds. Here we meet a very friendly Russian couple Danya and Tania. He works in Tbilisi since the war in the Ukraine and she came to visit during the holidays.
On our second day we hike through the Truso valley. Not much altitude this time so we glide effortlessly along the trail, surrounded by green velvet hills. For lunch we stop at a makeshift cafe. The old farmer lures us in with the magic words: kofe, chai? He offers a modest menu of bread with cheese or tomato, tea, coffee and cola. What more does one need?
I taste my first Georgian tomatoes here and they are truly something else. When I compliment his delicious cheese in my lacking Russian, he urges me to come look. A couple of cheese are drying in the sun and a small shed holds a dozen blue barrels with cheeses and the enormous pots he heats the milk in. Homemade ofcourse. With cowsmilk.
After our hike the taxi driver picks us up with our luggage so we can stay in Fifth season Juta for my birthday. A decadent extravagance by our standards, but sometimes all you want for your birthday is to wake up in pink sheets with a view of a mountain ridge. Absolutely worth the steep climb from the street to the hotel.