One of the most famous landmarks in Srinagar is the mythical Dal lake, flanked by a mountain range. Dal lake is famous for its houseboats. These are remnants of the time when the British were not allowed to own land/build houses in the Kashmir valley, so they commissioned these houseboats decorated with traditional local wood carvings.

The wetland is a patchwork of floating gardens lined by embankments and canals. The floating gardens are either hand woven mats made from weeds or floating marshlands. Farmers work hard to cultivate crops like collard greens, kohlrabi, carrots, radishes… This rich ecosystem and its crops are crucial to the city of Srinagar as a major source of vegetable supply.

The best way to experience the lake is during a shikara boat ride to the floating vegetable market. Every morning at the crack of dawn, vendors come together to go about their business from their boats, accompanied by their trusty old fashioned weighing balance. While we glide through the mist in our shikara, we buy cups of Kashmiri Kahwa from a teaseller in the hope that the warm drink will at least thaw our fingers. The vendor meticulously mixes the saffron, rose petals and pistachio crunch through our tea. While eagles scan the lake incessantly, the farmers and vendors balance on the ends of their boats for a little chat. After about an hour of trading, the men float away and every trace of the vegetable market has vanished. When we arrive back at our houseboat, the sun has just overcome the encircling mountains.