



08
Zong
1 day
After one hour of refusing locals’ invitations for tea we find a ride to Vrang. Not even halfway to Zong but at least it is something.
School children fill the streets of the little villages along the way. In Vrang our driver fixes a shared taxi for us. The whole car smells of petrol and every 4 km we have to stop so our driver can cool off the engine with water. The windows of the car are stuck so it will be half an hour of suffocating in petrol fumes.
We are dropped off at the only guesthouse in Zong. Spacious and clean with a shared bathroom. The daughter of the house, a 16-year-old girl, serves us.
The hike to Engels’ Meadows takes us to 4000 m. It is too cold to spend the night there this time of year so we do the 26 km there and back in one day. The only people we meet are shepherds. We have a small conversation with a mother and her young son. I wonder if he goes to school or if he has to help her with the goats everyday. An hour later we see a shepherd in the distance with a small puppy. In a few months, this black heap stumbling over the rocks will be a loyal and dangerous companion. A few metres down we see what we suppose is his house, made of the same stones as the mountains. Beside the river, where nothing grows and where no one else ever seems to go.
At a certain height, the path is buried under rocks and snow. The meadows themselves are snow-covered but beautiful nonetheless. A big shepherd dog is stopped just in time by its master to do what he is supposed to do: protect his flock. The shortcut tipped to us by a farmer and the gust of rain speed up our stride. Very tired but satisfied, we enjoy the shower and tea at our guesthouse.









